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Routes in Mean Mistreater Wall

Beautiful Flyaway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Legs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Crusher S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Slider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Feelin' Fertile S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
German American Club S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grace Slick S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
International Inquirer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Irrational Inquirer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Loonatic Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mean Mistreater T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pegasus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rich and Dave Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sixy Lady S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad Smith (with roof start), 1985. Steve Grossman, John Steiger, 1983
Page Views: 583 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 19, 2010 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

This climbs the face between Mean Mistreater and the Rich and Dave Route. (1) Scamper out a ledge leading left from near the base of Mean Mistreater, climb up a short right-facing dihedral, then move up and left to a bolt. Work back right and head up incipient cracks to a small roof system that forces you left into the Rich and Dave Route. Belay on a ledge (the left end of the Mean Mistreater ledge system) from gear. (2) Climb up the Rich and Dave Route crack for a short ways until possible to strike right, up face to a bolt underneath the crux roof. Turn the roof, skirt another bulge on the left, then head to the top.

Originally, Steve led the second pitch without bolts, but he avoided the crux roof by traversing out from the Rich and Dave Route above the roof, resulting in a stout 5.10 R. Brad later did the FA of the crux roof protected by the bolt beneath it, then did Steve's 5.10 R finish. In 1990, according to EFR's guide, Mike Hixon and partners bolted a line (apparently on rappel) they called "International Inquirer," bolting not only over the 5.10 R part of Irrational Inquirer, but essentially bolting over the 5.10 R/X variation on Mean Mistreater. The bolts on "International" should be removed.

Location

Find the base of Mean Mistreater. The route begins off the left end of the ledge to the left. Look for a bolt.

Protection

Standard Tucson trad rack (include micros).

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.

Photos

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The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2017. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 10, 2018

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