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Routes in Mean Mistreater Wall

Beautiful Flyaway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Legs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Crusher S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Slider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Feelin' Fertile S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
German American Club S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grace Slick TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Irrational Inquirer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Loonatic Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mean Mistreater T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pegasus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rich and Dave Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sixy Lady S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Baker and Rich Thompson
Page Views: 2,043 total, 14/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 1, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This climb is located in the middle of the wall left of the climb Mean Mistreater. The first bolt is up aways and may deter some. The climbing then follows small crack systems and flakes right towards the ledge below a prominent chimney. When we climbed it we found that it was easiest to traverse a bit further right at the end of pitch 1 and just belay at the three bolt anchor of Mean Mistreater. The second pitch ascends the chimeny either in or out. I found the crux of the route getting from the belay to in the chimney. Belay at the top between a small boulder and a small oak. Walk off.

Protection

There is one bolt about 15ft. up the beginning slab and the rest can be done with small to medium nuts and Camalots .3- #2

Photos

Karl Groll
Tucson, AZ
Karl Groll   Tucson, AZ
Really fun done as one long pitch with the right-side arete finish. Used a 70m, not sure if a 60 would reach? Oct 25, 2015
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Walking off is almost certainly faster than doing 2 rappels, I know my partner who chose to walk down rather than rap beat me to the bottom by a few minutes. Apr 4, 2013
I know you can walk off this climb, but it will actually take forever when compared to rappelling. Still I guess you are right, the description says to walk off. I just thought it might be useful information for someone else. Apr 4, 2013
Hope I didn't come off cranky. He said he was new to climbing. I just wanted him to realize reading the descriptions can be helpful before and after climbing a route. Apr 3, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
My thought exactly brick. I figured I'd sound cranky if I said it tho. Apr 3, 2013
Or you could follow what the description says and walk back down to your packs. Many of the old trad routes have walk offs. Apr 2, 2013
Did the route last Sunday with David (guy above) I agree the route is fun, especially the last part through the narrow chimney. I'm pretty new to climbing and found some sections to be pretty challenging.
Be aware of the lack of anchors directly above the chimney. We had to use the anchors from the route on the right to rappel. There's only one chain and a bolt up there, at least that we could find. They are really close to the edge, so i would recommend carrying some small but long rope (we carried a 6mm x 30ft)to make an anchor before trying to get the rope through the chains for the rappel. Apr 2, 2013
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
 
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
 
fun route... finished the 2nd pitch through the chimney.. if you arent going for the arete theres a good boulder anchor to belay Apr 2, 2013
Tradiban  
 
Great route, lots of different techniques on this one, did it in one pitch to the Mean Mistreater anchors with a 70m. Dec 11, 2012
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Did this yesterday- what a great route! I thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Stellar rock, good gear, and a nicely exposed 2nd pitch. The crux getting into the chimney was fun too! The arete finish was great. An excellent climb! May 20, 2012
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
  5.8+
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
  5.8+
Don't let the first bolt scare you from this fun route. I did not find it to be difficult to reach, besides it could be stick clipped. The rest of the route was easy to protect (no run-outs). I recommend building the second belay station (is is a good location). The bolted finish starts when the chimney ends, it is a great way to end the route, and you can rap back down the wall using the Mean Mistreater anchors. May 30, 2011
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I agree with Derek. Great climb with lots of variety, especially if you do the arete finish. A little spice on the first pitch too! Aug 30, 2010
Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
 
I have to say that I loved this climb and believe it is a Tucson classic... I know I know I have nothing to say when it comes to "what is what" and no one will respect my opinion but, I really enjoyed leading this climb. From the high first bolt to the chimney I got to inch worm up I felt that it was classic climbing and would love more climbs like it. Jun 29, 2010
Did it two days ago. Getting to the first bolt is classic old time adventure climbing. Finished on the bolted arete right of the chimney which was cool. Two raps down Mean Mistreater get you down. Nov 14, 2007
brad schierer
Tucson, AZ
 
brad schierer   Tucson, AZ
 
I agree with Jeff on this one. Run-out but classic! Oct 9, 2006
Jeff Fassett
  5.8
Jeff Fassett  
  5.8
Are you kidding? What's not to like, great rock, great exposure and fun climing (try steming the outside of the chimney and staying to the right). There is more to climbing then just simply "pulling down". Jan 12, 2006
Vincent Greene
  5.8+
Vincent Greene  
  5.8+
I've got to agree with that last comment. Climbed it for the first time today and was not all that impressed. I guess if you like chimneys... Jan 1, 2006
not that great a route. did it today and thought that it kinda sucked. Who knows might change my mind as time goes by. Nov 8, 2005