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Steppin in the Slide Zone
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ray Ringle, John Steiger |
Page Views: | 871 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on May 11, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.
Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).
pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.
Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).
pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.
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