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Routes in Mean Mistreater Wall

Beautiful Flyaway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Legs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Crusher S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Slider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Feelin' Fertile S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
German American Club S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grace Slick S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
International Inquirer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Irrational Inquirer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Loonatic Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mean Mistreater T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pegasus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rich and Dave Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sixy Lady S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 124 total · 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Suggest Change]

pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.

Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).

pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.

Location [Suggest Change]

left of Rich and Dave route, 3rd route downhill from Mean Mistreater.

Protection [Suggest Change]

stoppers, cams to 3", and multiple brass nuts INCLUDING two #2 HB brass nuts at minimum.

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Someone replace that old bolt! This is a really classic old school Tucson climb. The thin nuts are hard to get but good but you need to be able to then clip a good bolt when you get there. classic RR/Steiger FA that deserves a lot more attention. May 16, 2016
Bolts replaced on both pitches. Aug 25, 2017

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