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Routes in Road Cut, The

Crack A No Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvy Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Street S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Escargot T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herring Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit and Run S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Penguin Lust S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spaceman Spiff S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Totem Pole S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Transmogrifier S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 386 total · 4/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Sep 14, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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2014 nesting closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

This route is in the Falcon Guide series "Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe" by Mike Carville 1999 Which rates the route 10c if I am looking correctly. The route is more like 11c.

Protection

It has approximately 7 bolts plus anchors

Photos

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Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Crap rock and drilled holds, don't bother. Jul 19, 2012
urs
urs  
This route is thin and delicate and the holds are very hidden. Pockets are there but are mostly chipped. It doesnt see alot of ascents due to its ok quality rock. The grade is controversial but is probally an easy 11. Feb 17, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Hahaha... Some friends and I were touring around Tahoe, climbing at Emerald Bay when rain started pouring. When we got to Truckee we decided to check out Donner Pass, and, hey, the rain looked like it was clearing up. When we saw the roadcut, it was pretty clear we weren't going to get a shorter approach and the rain was holding off for now. What to do, what to do? Easy Street! Shouldn't be too hard... Needless to say, it was a hangdog-fest as we put the boulderer among us on lead. But he finished it! I'm not sure on the grade, but it was certainly no Easy Street to the top, more like calling a fat guy Slim. Oct 7, 2010
If you take I80 and exit on Donner Lake Road (exit# 180) you will head down (South) from the exit until the road comes to a T with Donner Summit Road. Take a right (going West) until the road starts winding uphill. Keep your eye open for a tall pinkish colored cut of rock on the right hand side across from a dirt turnout on your left. If you drive by slowly you can see a nice wide crack going up the wall. This is Crack-a-no-go 5.10a trad, with a sweet question mark-shaped finger crack ("Curvy Crack," 5.10c trad) to the right of it about in the middle of the face. The crack leads to a ledge about 25+ feet high and the face has one bolted route on the very right hand side. There is a large ramp-shaped boulder on the ground below the wall. This is The Road Cut. If you are looking at the wall which faces the road, "Easy Street" is all the way to the right on the last east-facing wall. The bolts go upwards to the right of the arete and there is a massive runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Absolutely no way this route is 5.10c. Hope that helps, mate. Cheers. Sep 19, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Route info? Location? How do you find the base?

....most people who will be looking here won't be locals and they may not have Carville's book. Some additional info would be nice.

Cheers. Sep 14, 2010