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Routes in Road Cut, The

Crack A No Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvy Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Street S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Escargot T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herring Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit and Run S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Penguin Lust S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spaceman Spiff S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Totem Pole S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Transmogrifier S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Jonny Woodword
Page Views: 2,036 total, 18/month
Shared By: urs on Jul 25, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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2014 nesting closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

This route was for many years a very scary lead with huge runouts and loose terrain until someone (?) cleaned it up and bolted it. Now its a very enjoyable route with a mixture of crimps, slopers, pockets and knobs. The route ascends the obvious arete just left of Transmogrifier. With the route cleaned up and bolted it is starting to see alot of traffic and it is a good warm-up before hopping on Spaceman Spiff or some of the other hard routes at Roadcut.

Location

The route is just to the left of Transmogrifier on the obvious arete.

Protection

The protection is all bolts with a two bolted rap anchor on the top. The route requires a 60m rope or longer to get down.

Photos

Two pins and gear on the FA. Nature has proven that the original name was more appropriate. Jan 11, 2016
slk
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
R.I.P Totem pole... Feb 15, 2015
Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole. Jan 13, 2014
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Johnny Woodward bolted this line ground up and onsight. Jan 12, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  3rd
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  3rd
The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line. Oct 29, 2013
Lurker
Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
Rumor has it that a decent chunk of this route fell off last winter, and is now a few grades harder....guess that's what you get at a roadcut. Mar 13, 2012
Rick D
Reno, NV
  5.11c
Rick D   Reno, NV
  5.11c
10 bolts plus one old piton, so eleven clips total. Full sixty meter rope. May 1, 2009
Dra-go-nee
5.11b
Dra-go-nee  
5.11b
I think if Hit and Run is an 11b, then this one deffinately scores 11b. A little bit harder and more committing than Hit and Run and a huge step up from escargot. Aug 26, 2008