Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 927 total · 9/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is suggested in the Wounded Knee description, but deserves its own write-up. One of the best, hard multi-pitch climbs in Boulder Canyon. Three radically different pitches. Pitch 1 (Divine Wind/11b) is thin stemming with small, but good gear; Pitch 2 (Bearcat Goes to Hollywood/11d-12a) is improbable stemming on a steep, bolt-protected slab; Pitch 3 is a wildly overhanging handcrack (Wounded Knee). Bring all the skills.

Location

Divine Wind is the obvious dihedral 30 feet off the deck on the left side of the Dike Wall. Climb it to the fixed anchor on top. Traverse right and join Bearcat about half-way up, above its lower run-out 5.9+ portion, but immediately into the business. Fixed anchor on top. Climb the obvious, well-named, "Wounded Knee" directly above. Walk off to the west.

Protection

RPs to #3 1/2 Camalot, bolts on Bearcat.

Photos

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F.A.: Mark Rolofson in 1985. I used to climb this link-up often in the mid to late 1980s, back when "Bearcat Goes to Hollywood" only had 3 bolts. The name I gave it was "Divine Bearcat Wound". It was first documented in "1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide" back in the 1980s & 1990s. This was a really nice way avoid a very long runout on the middle section of Bearcat. In 2000, I retro-bolted Bearcat & actually straightened out the middle section, taking a more direct line (5.11a/b) that is well-protected.

This link-up is still a great way to link-up great climbing on the 3 routes. Nov 2, 2018