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Routes in West Buttress aka Comedy Wall

Comedy Works S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Far Side, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Stalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practical Joke T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Comedian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sharp and Carry, 1979
Page Views: 1,415 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
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Description

Thin stemming on high quality granite.

This writeup only discusses the first pitch which is all most people are going to be interested in. The second pitch is said to be 11b and very serious. Anyone care to add a description of P2?

P1. Start at the left end of Blob Rock, below a prominent clean, right facing corner which starts about 30' above the ground. The corner is visible in the Blob Rock perspective photo, just right of the top of a pine tree in the foreground and left of a prominent slab/bald-spot. (From the Bolt Cola area, walk left a couple of hundred yards and scramble up some ledges to reach the start.)

Some moderate, better-than-it-looks climbing leads to the corner proper. Place a good upward directional to protect the small nuts that will follow. Stem upward placing good small stoppers and RPs. The crux is at the top of the corner and can be partially avoided by stepping left around the arrete which the old Erickson guidebook said made the pitch 10+.

There is a fixed anchor at the end of the pitch, but continuing on Bearcat is highly recommended.

P2. On the second pitch you have to do the hardest moves before you get gear in, so it is a potential ankle-breaker, certainly "R-rated". It is of similar difficulty to the first pitch, though the hard part is pretty brief. It is also possible to finish the route with the Wounded Knee roof.

Protection

Mainly small nuts with some fingers to hands cams for the bottom.
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
 
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
 
A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in. Jul 6, 2010
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Ivan is right about the nuts protecting the crux, however.... a few years ago I belayed a friend leading who fell at the crux resulting in snapping the cable of the first nut, yanking out the second, then snapping the cable of the 3rd nut! (it's possible that both of the nuts that snapped had worn or kinked cables) The 4th piece, a small blue TCU held the whipper. So be careful of what you place there. Nov 11, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Finally got on this as the first climb of my brother Paul's 4-day visit. A bit too ambitious for me, as I struggled on the 9 approach, got the first hard move into the stem, then hung a bunch figuring out the next moves into the higher stem. Lowered from there and Paul led through the upper crux clean. I was unable to get it clean on TR.

Neither of us could figure out the 10d "escape" out L. Perhaps it's at the very top.

Gear for the approach is red and gold Camalot and green and yellow Aliens. Then small brass protect the first crux. Paul placed 3 good small nuts to protect the final crux. Nov 7, 2006