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Routes in Dike Wall

Avoiding Wounded Knee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bearcat Goes to Hollywood S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DivineBearcatKnee T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Of The Storm T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wild Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wounded Knee T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Achey & Lugbill, 1980
Page Views: 730 total, 6/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This obscurity has some lichen issues, but otherwise is on par w/ Divine Wind -- the middle part of the climb offers sustained laybacking and stemming w/ generally good gear. Rolofson gives it a PG which is not really justified, though placing pro at the crux is both strenuous and not completely obvious.

Proceed straight up from the end of Wild Cat's first pitch, following easy licheny cracks and corners for about 25'. At a fork, traverse right around an undercling to reach a right-facing corner; establishing oneself in the corner is surprisingly hard/awkward. Up the corner to where it steepens and cruxes. Finish with easy slabbing which leads to the anchors of Clever Cat. It is two single rope raps back to the ground.

Location

Start at the bolt anchor at the end of Wild Cat's first pitch.

Protection

Single set of nuts from RPs to medium. Set of cams from blue Alien to blue Camalot with doubles in thin fingers and smaller.

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This is a terrific pitch that deserves much more traffic. Once you pull into the corner, it's great climbing all the way, and it feels longer than it looks. The crux is a very cool, powerful sequence, and the exit onto the slab isn't all that easy either. Jan 30, 2011