Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eriksson & Rolofson, 1982
Page Views: 2,960 total · 13/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Sustained slab climbing.

Ascends a prominent slab which starts about 50' off the deck on the left side of Blob Rock. This slab is obvious in the Blob Rock perspective photo.

There are several options for pitch 1: the first pitch of BGTH, 5.9 trad 40'; The first pitch of Wildcat, soft 11a sport with 5 bolts; Divine Wind 11b trad with an easy 5th class connector pitch.

Pitch two involves sustained, intricate slab climbing with a crux at the second to last bolt. The hard to downclimb nature of the climbing makes for a difficult onsight. Originally lead with just a couple of bolts and micro nuts; no thanks. This south-facing route would probably be less enjoyable in full sun. 11d, 70'.

Two raps get you back to the ground.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
WARNING: There is a 20' runout or so between the 3rd and 4th bolts. There are big scoops, but they are sloped. I got pretty gripped. Recovered, got gripped again, barely downclimbed. Then did a Houdini escape by hooking a chain of 3 long runners over a very dubious nubbin and monkeying down to the 3rd bolt. Coincidentally, shortly after this fiasco, I ran into Mark Rolofson, whom I had never met, and who did the FA in '82 with 3 bolts, and then retrobolted it in 2000. He was amused at my story, and said he has debated adding another bolt, but originally thought the retrobolted route should retain some of the spice of the original runout FA. He says the runout section is about 5.8, so for someit will feel casual. Mark promised to tell me if he adds another bolt, so that I can go back. Jan 25, 2004
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I see we have another unacceptable instance of a climber getting scared. What are we to do? Oh, that's right, you do what Ivan did: devise a way to retreat and find a route that won't cause you to poop yer britches. I'll make the crazy suggestion that this pitch has already been lowered to a sufficient level, even for Boulder Canyon. Mark, I believe you've done enough.On a lighter note, this is a kick-ass slab pitch with intricate climbing and plenty of bolts. My hat is off to those that got to do it before the revolting-bolting. Jan 26, 2004
Joe Collins  
 
Having just climbed this great route on Saturday, I thought the section between the 3rd and 4th bolts was a little spicy, but not serious, unless you seriously screw it up on the 5.4/5.5 waterdishes to clip the 4th bolt. The 5.8ish mantle comes a few feet above the 3rd bolt. For those who don't like runouts of any kind, the 11b first pitch of Divine Wind is perhaps better protected and is one of the best trad pitches in the Canyon. Masochists who enjoy #3 Camalot sized jamming can finish on Wounded Knee, at a very hand-size-dependent 11b. Jan 26, 2004
Joe Collins  
 
For history's sake, where were the original locations of the bolts? Looking at the Rossiter topo it looks like there was a bolt at the start of the upper hard slab climbing (at the present 5th bolt), then one at the crux (present 7th bolt), and then some fixed stuff in the seams below the anchor. Presumably the lower section was protected by RPs in the seam to the left of bolts 1, 2, and 3? Jan 26, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I see that Bob D is slyly giving me some grief for getting scared. Well, I'm nowhere near an 11d climber, but I have gotten up some "11c" sport routes (a sly dig at some of Bob's ratings at Plotinus) in good style, and also the nearby Y2K (supposedly 11d) clean. So I thought I'd give Bearcats a try. I consider myself a mid-10 trad climber, and a lousy slab climber. I hate having to rely on my feet, and I freak if I don't have anything for my hands. That's from learning to climb in the Gunks and spending most of my long climbing career there. Jan 26, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I asked Mark Rolofson about where the three bolts were originally. He seemed a bit unsure, but thought one was where the third bolt is (sketchy trad gear to that point), and the other two higher. The 4th and 5th bolts are side by side an arms's length apart. Mark said that Dan Hare put the 4th bolt in, I think to protect the linkup from Divine Wind to Bearcats? Not sure about that though. Jan 26, 2004
David A. Turner
  5.12a
David A. Turner  
  5.12a
The first ascentionist, and current guide book author, upgraded this climb to 12a. I'll take it. One of those 11d/12a kind of climbs. Best slab pitch in Boulder County. Oct 17, 2007
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
First, I don't know why Ivan Rezucha ever thought I was unsure about the locations of the original 3 bolts. They were at bolt 2, 6, & 8 (the crux bolt). Secondly, I climbed Bearcat many times in the 1980s, using double ropes because RPs & the bolts weren't in a straight line. I always did it in one pitch to the stance at its current anchor. There is a short 5.10 second pitch that goes right around the ceiling & up a corner to the ledge above Wounded Knee. Now that it is retrobolted, you only need 3-5 pieces of gear to protect 5.6 climbing getting to the 1st bolt (Aliens or small-medium stoppers to a #1 Camalot). It is possible to descend from the anchor with a 70 meter rope. Doing the route as a sport climb requires doing two pitches starting with Wild Cat (5.10d/11a). Great way to do the route giving it a harder start. However doing one pitch from the ground & being able to lower off also has great appeal.

The middle section of the climb past 3rd & 4th bolts takes a more direct line (.11a/b) than we originally climbed. Much cooler & way less runout. The remaining run-out is only 5.8. The route originally traversed right protected by gear (around 3rd bolt) & then moved up & left for a very long runout (35-40 ft.). I am very happy that I retro-bolted this 5 star classic, because otherwise it would rarely get done. It makes for a much better direct line that requires one rope, not two.

Lastly the climb was originally done in EBs, & it was definitely .12a. Sticky rubber made it feel much easier (.11d). It's still a brilliant lead with some very engaging climbing at 5.11d/12a. The crux is definitely height-dependent. Nov 2, 2018
Pinklebear
  5.12a
Pinklebear  
  5.12a
Metolius green and black got me up corner to first bolt. 12a crux at top of route if short. Had to tick tack up on doinky-doink little feet. Mega slab! Nov 16, 2018