Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Mike Downing, 1985
Page Views: 439 total · 2/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Begin just down and to the right of Wounded Knee and Bearcat Goes To Hollywood at a conspicuous vertical crack. Judging by the amount of lichen, this route doesn't see much traffic, though I think it deserves more. The first pitch is much tamer than I imagine it must have been before the new bolts were added on the bit shared with Bearcat Goes To Hollywood, though still exciting, and the exposure is a lot of fun.

Climb the starting crack (5.8 at the bolt, though this shown as 5.6 in the Falcon Guide) up to the downward pointing spike that is the beginning of Bearcat. I clipped three bolts here before heading right (crux) across the airy, slopy traverse ledge (5.8s). A fall here wouldn't be fun, but there's really only a couple of moves before the jugs. One can pop in a dubious red alien before the final sporty move to the anchor, shared with Radlands. The second pitch begins with the first several feet of the thin crack straight up from the belay, then heads right past an underclinging flake before heading up to the top. 2 single rope rappels to the ground, or walk off.


Mostly quick draws, but a few strategically placed small nuts/cams help keep this only in the 's' category.


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