Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dike Wall

Avoiding Wounded Knee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bearcat Goes to Hollywood S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DivineBearcatKnee T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Of The Storm T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wild Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wounded Knee T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Reveley & Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 808 total · 4/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a solid handcrack through a 6' roof. It is not extraordinary in and of itself, but when combined with Divine Wind and Bearcat, this pitch culminates "The Naked Edge of Boulder Canyon", a link up of three 5.11 pitches each of which is a completely different style of climbing.

Start at the end of the crux pitch of Bearcat. Climb a few feet of uninpsiring rock to get to the crux. The crux may be figuring out how to place the #3 Camalot without blocking the best jam. Once you've taken care of this, head horizontally out the crack on good hand jams. Turn the lip and you're done.

BETA ALERT: don't place another piece after the #3 until you've gotten a hand past the lip.

Descent: There are no fixed anchors. Either do the 3rd class walk off or reverse (down aid) the pitch which is pretty easy since it's so short.

Protection

A couple of small nuts and cams (e.g. green & yellow Alien) for the start, 2, 3 (key piece) and 3.5 Camalot for the crack. Medium nuts useful for the anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
The roof is really good! Should be on anyone's tick list who likes abit of groveling combined with proper horizontal crack climbing. Nov 24, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it! Nov 23, 2015
This is described as a three-pitch climb in Bob D's guidebook to the canyon. We did the first two pitches as described there: climb Wildcat to its anchor, then go up a right-facing corner to a ledge, go right at an undercling (crux), then continue up to an undercling traverse heading right to another corner, go up the corner a few feet and then reach right to the Bearcat anchor. He rates it 10+ and that seemed about right; good gear the whole way (standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot). Jan 19, 2015
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Powerful and exposed, this route seems worth at least two stars! The crux roof pitch is short, but the exposure is wild, and the sustained nature of the climbing make it challenging for the grade. The 1st pitch is harder than it looks too and high quality, but Bearcat is even better. Mar 27, 2006
If the jams at the start feel squirly to you (tight #3 camalot) then you'll be very unhappy if you didn't tape up. I discovered this firsthand as I left a substanial chunk of flesh in the start of the crack. Oct 7, 2003