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Early Access
Routes in Mechanical Man
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Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 40.18451, -105.33834 |
| FA: | B. Gillett, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 780 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....
From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.
Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair (5.7+).
Location
To reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.
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