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Routes in Mechanical Man

Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: B. Gillett & K. Younge, 2006
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

An interesting climb on good rock, but needs a little cleaning yet. Start at the leftmost bolt-and-gear belay at the base of Tier Two, having rapped in from the standard ledge atop Tier Three to the slab chains, then down and left of the slab chains to the comfortable belay ledge.

From there, you will be looking just right up into Emissions Testing corner, or up into the shallow, hanging dihedral of The Tooth. Move left to a crack as for The Tooth and start climbing, but instead of coming out right around the blunt corner and into the hanging dihedral of The Tooth, stay left, reaching a solid flake that bends left and becomes a secure hand traverse for 20 feet or so. Climb this feature on solid hands, passing a somewhat annoying bush midway. Continue up cracks in a corner for the remainder of perhaps 90 feet in all to a belay ledge with a bolt.

You can continue directly up on Job Site (5.7, not very clean yet) or belay here.

The best climbing is to be had by belaying here or one station to the left on the same ledge, then doing a second pitch consisting of Mr. Goodwrench continuing into Auto Repair. (150', 5.10-, take a 4" cam.)

Location

Handyman is the left-most climb on Tier Two of the Mechanical Man and is started from the same bolt-and-gear belay as for The Tooth and Emissions Testing, but goes left around a corner and stays left.

Protection

A standard rack perhaps with doubles around hand-sized cams, especially if continuing the route through and adding on Job Site as an extension.

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