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Routes in Mechanical Man

Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: M. Hemmes & T. Eggen, 2002
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A good route that still has a few flakes to shed. We cleaned a few, but a few more scraps will undoubtedly fall on future ascents.

This is a a good 65' pitch to a bolted anchor that is best continued directly up a 5.0 slab to Bending Nails (5.7) or Finish Carpenter (5.9) or merged right though Antifreeze to The Big Narrow for ~100' and then continued into 'The Finish Carpenter for 160'(?) of quality climbing.

Start off in the right-facing, right-leaning corner off of the leftmost of two single bolt and gear belays. This is the center of 3 such corners and 2-such bolts. The right most is Antifreeze (10a) and the rightmost, hanging overhead 15 feet or so is The Tooth, (10d). Climb up on continuous jams in hands and flares with good feet and good gear to a flaring tight hands jamming crux (5.9-) and then past the end of the corner onto a slab after 20 meters. A bolted anchor is visible if you are planning to retreat down to climb another opening pitch.

If not going right back down for The Tooth or AntiFreeze, then continue onward up the 5.0 slab and beyond, or tend right past the end of Antifreeze to merge with The Big Narrow, and follow those cracks (moderate) to a ledge, now 100' over the belay or so.... Cross some blocks on a ledge and continue up a thin-hands right facing corner (Finish Carpenter, 5.9-) to the blocky ledge of the rock reached first via the approach.

Location

This route is the center of 3 consecutive right-facing corners on a ledge below tier 3, reached by rapping from the slab anchor. It starts up above the left-most of 2 belay bolts.

Protection

A rack from fingers to 3" with a good number of slings to run it all together.

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