Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Mechanical Man
|Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 170 ft|
|FA:||B. Gillett, P. Bodnar, 2006|
|Page Views:||48 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 9, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the longest single pitch on Mechanical Man, ascending the longest part of Tier 2 for over 100' and easily linking into 'Finish Carpenter' for an additional 50' of excellent climber, for almost 200' in total.
The route starts off on some moderate, stopper-protected, crack moves to reach a series of 4 bolts (crux face climbing) before climbing some moderate rock leading up to 5.8- cracks and corners. These continue to ascend to the base of Finish Carpenter, which is climbed to a slung-block belay. You could continue to the bolts and chains on the standard Tier 3 rap anchor, but drag and rope wear might be problematic at that angle, as it is far off to the side.
LocationTo climb this route, fix and rap a 200' line from the ledge and standard rap atop P3 all the way to the lower right side of the rock as directed in the Gillett book. or.... Rap a single line 90 feet to the slab anchors amid Tier 2, then down hard and to climbers right on a single 70m line (60m may not reach) passing a bolt on a slab, and then around a corner to pass 3 more on a vertical face to a chossy but safe belay area.
Climb up past the bolts and onward and onward....
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