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Routes in Mechanical Man

Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft
FA: B. Gillett, P. Bodnar, 2006
Page Views: 48 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the longest single pitch on Mechanical Man, ascending the longest part of Tier 2 for over 100' and easily linking into 'Finish Carpenter' for an additional 50' of excellent climber, for almost 200' in total.

The route starts off on some moderate, stopper-protected, crack moves to reach a series of 4 bolts (crux face climbing) before climbing some moderate rock leading up to 5.8- cracks and corners. These continue to ascend to the base of Finish Carpenter, which is climbed to a slung-block belay. You could continue to the bolts and chains on the standard Tier 3 rap anchor, but drag and rope wear might be problematic at that angle, as it is far off to the side.

Location

To climb this route, fix and rap a 200' line from the ledge and standard rap atop P3 all the way to the lower right side of the rock as directed in the Gillett book. or.... Rap a single line 90 feet to the slab anchors amid Tier 2, then down hard and to climbers right on a single 70m line (60m may not reach) passing a bolt on a slab, and then around a corner to pass 3 more on a vertical face to a chossy but safe belay area.

Climb up past the bolts and onward and onward....

Protection

4 draws for the bolted line (crux near bolt #3) and then up past a series of cracks and corners (stay left when in doubt) to the Base of Finish Carpenter and then up that (single pitch possible) to the belay ledge atop of Tier Three.

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