Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: EFR,John Baker,Geir Hundal,Marcy Makarewicz,'10
Page Views: 1,764 total · 17/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 24, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Steep face, easy crack and a steep head wall finish make this worth bringing a small rack along. It eases up a lot once you reach the gear section and may be no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. The head wall will bring you back to 5.11.

Location

Starts in a scoop/corner feature capped by blocky dark rock with 3 bolts in it. Above this is a pretty right facing corner with a sweet looking crack.

Protection

Bolts small rack up to red size camalot

Photos

jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
This is a good route to do if you want to "claim" a 5.11 trad lead. The gear part is easy and the gear is bombproof. The upper crux is nice but hard to read.

I was robbed of the onsight FA, going for the anchor, when a foothold exploded. That's my _STORY_ anyway. Good clean fall off upper headwall. Jul 24, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
 
this is a very good climb. three well placed bolts protect the tricky starting sequence, after which you get into a beautiful crack section that takes great pro. the final headwall is actually a lot of fun and (for me) the crux. Jul 25, 2010
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11a
This is probably my favorite route at the crag to date. Nice variety. Recommended. Sep 11, 2010
Jimbo  
I concur with John on the rating. If you go left on the upper face it's no harder than 11a. Fun route, too bad the crack part is so easy.
Definitly way easier than Canadian Bacon. Sep 12, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
I was trying to be ultra-pure and so went straight for the anchor. Now I hear that most folks trend left at the top. Sep 12, 2010
Jimbo  
John, we're too old to be thinking about being pure. Trickery is the tool of choice fer us old timers. Sep 12, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11-
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11-
Looks like some nice human took a hammer to the first bolt hanger. It is a Fixe hanger and they were able to bend it over a ways. You can still clip it so I would use and not worry about it. Aug 6, 2012
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
what do you mean "took a hammer" to it? is the hanger dilapidated? May 10, 2013
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
 
Took a hammer to = bent it down flat against the rock. Well, almost flat - you can still just barely clip it. May 10, 2013
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
did this route on saturday, certainly a good fun time. the crack gobbles gear and is a ton of fun. the bottom seems a bit soft for 11- and felt more like stiff 10+ to me. i finished in the chimney so i cannot attest to the upper headwall difficulty.

EDIT March 2015
i was wrong; the bottom is 11-. the top is mid-10 at the hardest. unfortunately the crux of the route is clipping the 3rd bolt, but overall an excellent climb. it's worth bringing a light rack for this route alone.

also, if you don't like the idea of adding 3-5 pounds of gear to your pack for a 10-minute approach, it sounds like you could use the training weight anyway. Jul 8, 2013