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Routes in Lower Wall

3/8 Mexican T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
5.8 C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Few Too Many S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bisquick S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouldering 101 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canadian Bacon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
G-Men S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marcy's Playground T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Monster Buck S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Painless Steal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ray Guns S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raycreational Jug Use T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Registered NILFs S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venezuelan Mafia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: EFR, JohnBaker, Jesse Schulz,'10
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Two cruxes, one on the lower tier and one on the sharply overhanging plated face above. Unfortunately there is about 20 feet of very easy climbing between the lower tier and the upper. So one is doing two 20 foot crux sections with a good rest between them. The anchors are just a few feet past the final holds and you will need to get your shoulders past them to clip them and it is a hard clip until you get your feet and fingers set. A lot of folks will be grabbing the anchors on this one.

Location

Starts in a right angling seam with some gray quartz crystals in it about 25 feet left and below the start of Registered NILFs.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jimbo  
Found a new hold (I use the term loosely) today which made the finish a bit easier.

I do it completely differently than EFR. Jesse also used a hold I didn't. Look around there's more than one way to finish this climb.

Now that I've done it, I kind up like this climb. In a sick masochistic sort of way. Nov 9, 2010
Jimbo  
Well guess I don't need to get on this climb again if I have to focus.
Hard move at the top! Oct 4, 2010
I found that if I focus on climbing until it is possible to clip them at at about waist level rather than focusing on clipping the anchors it is not too bad. Very balancy though. Sep 29, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Your evil plan worked Eric - I couldn't clip those @#*!%! anchors! Sep 28, 2010