Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: EFR, JohnBaker, Jesse Schulz,'10
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Two cruxes, one on the lower tier and one on the sharply overhanging plated face above. Unfortunately there is about 20 feet of very easy climbing between the lower tier and the upper. So one is doing two 20 foot crux sections with a good rest between them. The anchors are just a few feet past the final holds and you will need to get your shoulders past them to clip them and it is a hard clip until you get your feet and fingers set. A lot of folks will be grabbing the anchors on this one.

Location

Starts in a right angling seam with some gray quartz crystals in it about 25 feet left and below the start of Registered NILFs.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Your evil plan worked Eric - I couldn't clip those @#*!%! anchors! Sep 28, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12
I found that if I focus on climbing until it is possible to clip them at at about waist level rather than focusing on clipping the anchors it is not too bad. Very balancy though. Sep 29, 2010
Jimbo  
Well guess I don't need to get on this climb again if I have to focus.
Hard move at the top! Oct 4, 2010
Jimbo  
Found a new hold (I use the term loosely) today which made the finish a bit easier.

I do it completely differently than EFR. Jesse also used a hold I didn't. Look around there's more than one way to finish this climb.

Now that I've done it, I kind up like this climb. In a sick masochistic sort of way. Nov 9, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12
I could not even do the finishing move today. Haven't been on it since the FA eight years ago. Guess i was stronger then! Jul 8, 2018