Description

To date there are three walls two of which face west northwest and the third, Boulder X about 40 feet tall, faces south. There are not many moderate climbs. One trad 5.8 and two sport 5.9's a few 5.10s and the rest are 5.11 or 5.12. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall and has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it.
The upper wall 50 feet tall at most is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11. Things can be a bit grainy and fuzzy with lichen but it isn't too bad.

To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading 10 years ago but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol. The first ascent was done by Steve McCrohan.

The upper wall gets really crowded most weekends but it is pretty quiet during the week.

Getting There

Park at the Sunset Trail parking area which is just opposite Butterfly Trail just past Bear Wallow around milepost 22. Take the road right behind the sign showing the trail not the one with the gate. Follow this down 200 yards or so just past a turn to the right. Rocks will be blocking the road here. Continue past them on the now blocked road 100 feet or so then take the road down to the left. When you reach the drainage find the trail and follow it downstream staying right next to the stream. You will pass a short lichen covered cliff with a roof. The next wall downstream is the Lower Wall. Work around the right side and up to reach the upper cliff.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Raycreation Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
X-Ray
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 112
Jackie's Separation Anxiety
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Direct Warrior
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 88
Raycreation
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 75
Sting Ray, AKA Geirless Warrior
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Marcy's Playground
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 41
Canadian Bacon
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 44
Plateonic Love
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 47
Venezuelan Mafia
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Monster Buck
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Bouldering 101
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
X-Ray Upper Wall
 94
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Jackie's Separation Anxiety Upper Wall
 112
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Direct Warrior Upper Wall
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Raycreation Upper Wall
 88
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sting Ray, AKA Geirless War… Upper Wall
 75
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Marcy's Playground Lower Wall
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Canadian Bacon Lower Wall
 41
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Plateonic Love Upper Wall
 44
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Venezuelan Mafia Lower Wall
 47
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Monster Buck Lower Wall
 39
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bouldering 101 Lower Wall
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Raycreation Area »

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This place is really a lot of fun! A wide variety of climbs, good rock, and a short approach. Jul 21, 2010
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
For approach do not go through the gate behind the sign in the parking lot. This is not the correct road, it will lead to a bridge. Instead take the road that has a "dead end" sign and a carbonite "trail ahead" marker. Furthermore, when you pass the overhanging rock with lichen on the approach continue down the trail another 200 yards or so. The trail will cross the creek and there will be a large landing area with bolts facing the stream. Fun place with overhanging routes that have nice holds. Jul 23, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
A really nice addition to Tucson summer climbing. Pretty spot that didn't get hit by the fires... nice hangout. Cool, shady, fun routes. Jul 25, 2010
For those of you who have Google Earth, you can view the approach using the file below:

geir.com/googleearth/lemmon…

(Google Earth can be downloaded for free.) Jul 25, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
i think we've witnessed the birth of a new premier sport crag on the upper mountain. way to go, eric & co! Aug 9, 2010
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Props to whoever fixed up the trail to the upper wall recently--looks great. Thanks! Oct 11, 2010
Hi I left a draw on Step Class today. My climbing partner cut his hand and we wanted to get out as soon as possible so we just left it. Please let me know if you pick it up, thanks! Megan May 17, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Big thanks to Myk Brown for donating all the mussy hooks that were added to the tops of many routes at this crag. Still a good idea to use your own draws at the top until the last person does the route then they can lower off the fixed stuff. Jun 19, 2012
Yeah Myk! Jun 19, 2012
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Thanks for making our climbing experience a little easier and a little safer Myk! Jun 20, 2012
Did you get them Ryan? I hope someone can pick them up while they are in the area. Aug 27, 2013
I left a pair of size 9 black evolve Defys at the base of Venezuelan June 13. They weren't there when I went back on June 14. Let me know if you have them and would like to give them back. Jun 15, 2015