Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA: Alex McIntyre June 2, 2018 | EQP: Aaron Mike
Page Views: 245 total · 24/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Jul 21, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This line between G-Men and Venezuelan Mafia tackles the large, blank-looking roof feature on the left end of the Lower Wall.

Climb easier rock up a vague crack feature for 15 feet to where things steepen. Clip the first chain draw in the roof if you can, then launch into a series of razor crimps leading to an obvious jug slot midway through the roof. Several sequences are possible through this section, depending on crimp strength, height, and jumping ability.

From the slot, clip the next draw and rest up for another sequence out the second half of the roof to the lip. This will likely involve some foot trickery, a crimp pinch and slopey crimps just over the lip. One more challenging sequence leads to a jug and a no-hands rest below the second roof. Easier but interesting pulling leads over this feature to the anchors.

The route stood as a closed project for a few years before Aaron opened it up in spring 2017. I didn't get a chance to get on it until I returned to Tucson in summer 2018, by which time Aaron had injured his AC ligament on the route and I sprained my ankle a week before bouldering in the Wilderness of Rocks, hence the name.

Location

The route follows a line of bolts up a short crack feature and then through the large roof at the left end of the Lower Wall, where the approach trail meets the wall. Currently, the route sports chain draws through the first half of the climb and project draws through the second half. Between G-Men and Venezuelan Mafia.

Protection

Bolts to chains with lowering hardware. Currently fully equipped with chain draws on the first half and project draws on the second.

Photos

So cool to see this go down so quickly! Nice work Alex! I’m really curious to see how other people will tackle the crux. Jul 22, 2018