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Routes in Lower Wall

3/8 Mexican T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
5.8 C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Few Too Many S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bisquick S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouldering 101 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canadian Bacon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
G-Men S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marcy's Playground T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Monster Buck S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Painless Steal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ray Guns S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raycreational Jug Use T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Registered NILFs S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venezuelan Mafia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: EFR,Geir Hundal,Eric Ruljancich,'10
Page Views: 149 total, 2/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 16, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Steep crack, corner, roof, bulges, and a wild move at an overhanging corner. Rock is not 100% but the solid pro can be found all the way up. The final moves are as fun as it gets. If you don't want to do the hard finish work right to a fun 5.7 chimney that doesn't climb like one.

Location

To the right of the big overhang you first encounter is a crack/flake that curves right at a roof. above are two cracks this takes the left one. A bolted corner is just right of the start of this climb.

Protection

Trad rack with doubles up to yellow Camalot. A blue might help getting to the chains after the bolt. I save both reds for the upper half of the climb.

Photos

jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.11a/b
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.11a/b
I'd like to give it 4 stars but I can't. Lil bit of suspect rock and a mediocre middle. Bottom section is 10a/b and super fun. I use a rack from .3-2 with an extra purple and red. Crux moves at the bolt are a hoot. I love this route. And marcys. Great warm ups for the lower if you can stand a few moves of 11 Jul 23, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
agree with geir, easy 10 till the crux and it climbs a lot better than it looks. most of the flake/crack is surprisingly solid and gobbles nuts in addition to some good cam placements. it's a pity the middle part is so crappy otherwise this might be a 4-star route. Jun 28, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
this climb will surprise you with its quality. it's very consistant in difficulty until the ending crux, takes great gear, and the finish is just wild and fun. it's worth bringing a light rack down to the wall to do this route alone, more so if you do the other mixed lines here.

i used singles to #3 camalot and stoppers and had plenty of solid gear the whole way.

easy 5.10 until the final crux (11-), which is protected by a bolt. Jul 25, 2010