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Routes in Lower Wall

3/8 Mexican T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
5.8 C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Few Too Many S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bisquick S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouldering 101 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canadian Bacon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
G-Men S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marcy's Playground T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Monster Buck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Painless Steal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ray Guns S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raycreational Jug Use T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Registered NILFs S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venezuelan Mafia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Description [Suggest Change]

Beautiful spot with a creek below it. To date there are two walls both of which face west northwest. There are not many climbs and none of the climbs make it into the classic category but you can have a nice day. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall but has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it.
The upper wall is roughly 50 feet tall at and is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11.

To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park at the Sunset Trail parking area which is just opposite Butterfly Trail just past Bear Wallow around milepost 22. Take the road right behind the sign showing the trail. follow this down just past a turn to the right. Rocks will be blocking the road here. Continue past the in the road 100 feet or so then take the road down to the left. When you reach the drainage find the trail and follow it downstream staying right next to the stream. You will pass a short lichen covered cliff with a roof. The next wall down is what the lower wall. Work around the right side and up to reach the other cliff.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Marcy's Playground
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Canadian Bacon
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
Venezuelan Mafia
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Monster Buck
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Bouldering 101
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Marcy's Playground
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Canadian Bacon
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Venezuelan Mafia
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Monster Buck
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bouldering 101
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Wall »

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Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
My understanding of the routes from left to right:

01) Venezuelan Mafia (5.11+)
02) Raycreational Jug Use (5.11 / Mixed)
03) Marcy's Playground (5.11 / Mixed)
04) Ray Guns (5.12-)
05) Bouldering 101 (5.12)
06) Monster Buck (5.12)
07) Canadian Bacon (5.11)
08) 5.8 C (5.9 / Mixed)
09) A Few Too Many (5.12)
10) Registered NILFs (5.11+)

Note that 'Raycreational Jug Use' and 'Marcy's Playground' reach a large ledge. At this point there is a bolted 5.7 chimney variation on the right. Sep 13, 2010

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