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Early Access
Routes in Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bad Ass Pi Man TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candyland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cheater Five TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wing Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fingers Have It, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grind, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hackfleisch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanson's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Imago Dei S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impatient Padawan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Madness of Folly T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Mosh, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neanderthal’s Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oh Face S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Outer Mongolia S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overflowing Hope T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pack the Walls T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Parcheezee TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pebble Pinching Pagoda S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Primal Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rotunda, The S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sensus Numinis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squeeze, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Story So Far, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stratego TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three-Cam Joe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unshackled Minds S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Up the Red S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wall of Webs TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wandering Hearts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Wax On, Wax Off S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Way Out, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 39.35202, -104.76843 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,860 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | James on Apr 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures with 2025 closure until Aug. 31, 2025
Details
Per Rachel Chaffee, one of the Park Rangers at Castlewood Canyon State Park. We are extending the Morning Sun Wall and Cliff Base Trail closure till the end of August for 2025.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Snowy Owl nesting closure
Details
Per Matt Hearley: as of 2020, there is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
Description
This is a pretty good climb. Climb the lower crack to a ledge. You can fill this up with large gear if you want (3-6 inch cams or Bigbros). At the ledge, choose between more wide crack on the left or a hand crack on the right. If you are out of large gear (like I was), the right side is the better option.
The left finish is also good. I just need a couple more big pieces to lead that side.
Location
The Mosh is a little further southeast from Primal Jam. Look for an offwidth crack at the start with twin cracks above from a ledge (see photo). There are multiple options for the descent. There is a class 4 descent to the south near the start of the Cave Wall and at least three class 4 descents to the north before you get to the Grocery Store Wall.
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