Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Jack Biddix & Kevin Jenkins
Page Views: 426 total · 3/month
Shared By: kevin jenkins on Jul 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Snowy Owl nesting closure Details

Description

This route goes up the obvious flake on the left face of the chimney to the right of 'Fat Fingered and Overhung'. I've seen chalk all [about] the base of this route but not higher up. I'm certain I'm not the first ascentionist, but I am claiming it, unless otherwise corrected.... It is a nice little route, a little exposed, but most climbers will breeze it.

Protection

This route can be easily top roped using some longer webbing and the trees on top... some small nuts on top for back up....

If you want to lead this trad, I'd suggest some larger (7-9 hexes) pieces for the crack, [but] either way, there is risk of a pendulum into the chimney face.

Location

This is just to the [left] of the Ada Jam route.

Photos

kevin jenkins
  5.7
kevin jenkins  
  5.7
I should specify that this is [just] to the right of the [Ada Jam] route. Jul 23, 2005
I don't think there is a single route at Castlewood under 5.10 that hasn't been climbed. Aug 12, 2005
Hello Anonymous Coward,

It is true that, at one time or another, most lines of any interest have likely been climbed, on lead, toprope, or solo.When compiling the yellow Castlewood guidebook, more than 400 lines were omitted for brevity, and that was ten years ago.

Hello Kevin,

Any line that was of interest enough to climb and mention on this site must have some requisits of quality. Perhaps Jackalopes and Preachers should be added to the guide. Aug 15, 2005
kevin jenkins
  5.7
kevin jenkins  
  5.7
i'm certain that this was done, yet another Hanson or Horan or Sills classic, no doubt free soloed, without shoes, and blindfolded ten years before my birth... however, i didn't see anything on it in the guide, nor in here, so i added it... please forgive me any ill will, or toes i may have stepped upon in doing so. much love for this crag and its people.... kevin Sep 1, 2005
Rob B
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.7 PG13
Rob B   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.7 PG13
Lots of great small toe holds as you get higher, they don't look like much but they are definitely solid. I would warn that some moss has grown in the offwidth about halfway up, so watch out. Jun 5, 2012
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
Either your photo is wrong (not showing the route) or this has to be just to the LEFT of Ada Jam. Or I'm confused about where "Ada Jam" and "Are You Experienced" are located, because it sure looks like both of them are in the alcove to the right in this photo. Jul 4, 2013
kevin jenkins
  5.7
kevin jenkins  
  5.7
You are correct, it is to the left of Ada Jam as you are facing the cliff... not sure why I said right.... Sorry for the confusion! Feb 19, 2014