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Chicken Wing Crack
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bad Ass Pi Man TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candyland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cheater Five TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wing Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fingers Have It, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hackfleisch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanson's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Imago Dei T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impatient Padawan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Madness of Folly T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Mosh, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neanderthal’s Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oh Face S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Outer Mongolia S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overflowing Hope T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pack the Walls T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Parcheezee TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pebble Pinching Pagoda S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Primal Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rotunda, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sensus Numinis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Squeeze, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Story So Far, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stratego TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three-Cam Joe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unshackled Minds S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Up the Red TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wall of Webs TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wandering Hearts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Wax On, Wax Off S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Way Out, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,368 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on May 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Snowy Owl nesting closure
Details
Per Matt Hearley: as of 2020, there is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
Description
Find this route by hiking South from the Grocery Store walls until you see the large chimney (actually a huge detached block) with two offwidth routes. Chicken Wing is on the left. Although the climb is offwidth-sized, much of the route may be done using face holds and stemming to the arete on the left. Start up the route, then locate a small pocket on the inside left face (for the tricam) at about 8-10 feet. If you don't have a #5 Camalot (like me) you'll have to run it out to a good rest at about 20ft, otherwise a #5 should fit nicely in this wide section. A groundfall is probably not likely since the tricam is pretty bomber and once you reach the good ledge, the #4 Friend can be placed here. At this point, it's tempting to crawl back into the chimney and try to squeeze out the top, but it's just too thin (unless you're 10 years old or something). It's better to stay on the outside of the offwidth and face the monster like a man (or woman). Make the final committing moves up the home stretch via tough offwidth jams or liebacking. The #4 Camalot may be placed near the top of the hard moves in the crack on the right (The Squeeze) or if you happen to have TWO #5 Camalots, the second could be placed on the left.
The anchor on top may be constructed with a long (30 foot) sling by wrapping it around the long block about 15ft back from the edge. A #2 Friend may also be placed above The Squeeze in a long horizontal pocket.
The anchor on top may be constructed with a long (30 foot) sling by wrapping it around the long block about 15ft back from the edge. A #2 Friend may also be placed above The Squeeze in a long horizontal pocket.
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