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Routes in Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bad Ass Pi Man TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candyland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cheater Five TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wing Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fingers Have It, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hackfleisch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanson's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Imago Dei T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impatient Padawan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Madness of Folly T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Mosh, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neanderthal’s Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oh Face S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Outer Mongolia S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overflowing Hope T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pack the Walls T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Parcheezee TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pebble Pinching Pagoda S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Primal Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rotunda, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sensus Numinis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Squeeze, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Story So Far, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stratego TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three-Cam Joe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unshackled Minds S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Up the Red TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wall of Webs TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wandering Hearts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Wax On, Wax Off S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Way Out, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | [Tom Hanson, late 1980s] |
| Page Views: | 1,223 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on May 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Snowy Owl nesting closure
Details
Per Matt Hearley: as of 2020, there is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
Description
Locate Candyland just around the corner from Chicken Wing Crack on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.
Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.
The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.
Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.
The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.
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