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Routes in Neanderthal Wall

Ada Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Are You Experienced? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bad Ass Pi Man TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candyland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheater Five TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wing Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fingers Have It, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hackfleisch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanson's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosh, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outer Mongolia TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pack the Walls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Primal Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rotunda, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stratego TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up the Red TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Webs TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: [Tom Hanson, late 1980s]
Page Views: 223 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Snowy Owl nesting closure Details
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Description

Locate Candyland just around the corner from Chicken Wing Crack on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.

Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.

The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.

Protection

The pro is funky on this route, since it's listed as a toprope in the guidebook, but some flexible stem cams ;-0 and tricams can be fiddled into pockets and small horizontal breaks. Hard Grit, baby.

The following pieces work well: #0, 2, 1 Friends, #3 tricam.

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