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Routes in Neanderthal Wall

Ada Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Are You Experienced? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bad Ass Pi Man TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candyland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheater Five TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wing Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fingers Have It, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hackfleisch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanson's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosh, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outer Mongolia TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pack the Walls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Primal Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rotunda, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stratego TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up the Red TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Webs TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,255 total, 16/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

At the Neanderthal Wall as you're going south on the trail, go past the large block and find an arete on the wall with a small alcove to the right of the arete. In the back of the alcove, climb the double cracks. The first moves off the deck are reachy, but the climb offers a fine, moderate lead.

Protection

Standard rack. Some hexes work well in the cracks.

Per teece303: there is a two bolt anchor with quicklinks.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
Like many of the routes here, on no planet is this 5.6. Sep 22, 2013
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.

It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).

It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low. Jul 4, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom. Apr 2, 2012
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Damn fun route. Very good beginner trad-lead in my opinion. don't be afraid to reach a bit higher and find much better holds. The more timid you are, the harder the route. Either way, fun-fun-fun. Aug 16, 2003
Please note that this route follows the cracks marked as number 2 in the bottom picture. Sep 15, 2002