Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,445 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Snowy Owl nesting closure Details

Description

At the Neanderthal Wall as you're going south on the trail, go past the large block and find an arete on the wall with a small alcove to the right of the arete. In the back of the alcove, climb the double cracks. The first moves off the deck are reachy, but the climb offers a fine, moderate lead.

Protection

Standard rack. Some hexes work well in the cracks.

Per teece303: there is a two bolt anchor with quicklinks.

Photos

Dan Mottinger
  5.6
Dan Mottinger  
  5.6
Please note that this route follows the cracks marked as number 2 in the bottom picture. Sep 15, 2002
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Damn fun route. Very good beginner trad-lead in my opinion. don't be afraid to reach a bit higher and find much better holds. The more timid you are, the harder the route. Either way, fun-fun-fun. Aug 16, 2003
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom. Apr 2, 2012
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.

It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).

It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low. Jul 4, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Like many of the routes here, on no planet is this 5.6. Sep 22, 2013