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Routes in Selfish Wall

(Unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Little More Masochism T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apathy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breakfast Social T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bromance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dilated Cervix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Duo, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Echo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuck You and Your Selfie Stick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gnar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Roses T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heck'em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heretic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I&I T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Id T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infidel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean and Green T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MMM (Misanthropic Mustache Man) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Black Dog T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooze, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pack Rat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Self Pleasuring T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Selfishness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo East T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo West T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Suffering, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tag Team T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Takers, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turd Blossom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turdus Interuptus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alex Garhart and Toni Walters, April 2010
Page Views: 1,519 total · 15/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Begin in a thin open book corner right of the obvious bolt. Work your way up to a couple of small holds and a stance where you can reach left and clip a bolt. Make a delicate leftwards traverse to a good flake and mantle to another flake where you can reach a less than tips splitter on the left that takes 00 and 0 C3's. Make a fun bouldery move out of a pod to gain a small horizontal flake and a good stance below a small right facing corner. Climb tips to perfect fingers up the corner to a fingers/off-fingers splitter that goes to the chains.

Location

First route left of Bromance.

Protection

Small tcu's, tips, fingers and off-fingers, 1 QD. Chain anchor.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
I was wondering if you would be into a bolt for this climb because it looked a little consequential to fall at the traverse or bottom area. i think it would attract more traffic that way. Apr 12, 2010
Alex Garhart
  5.11
Alex Garhart  
  5.11
I was torn about adding a bolt to the lower section. The pro is decent high on the far right but makes the traverse heady because of the swing/deck potential. After the traverse a #00 black diamond is pretty solid in the small splitter. A bolt would make the route safer and I'm sure somebody would send the direct start. Next time I come out I'll bring the drill if somebody doesn't get there first. Thanks for the feedback. -Alex Apr 15, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Sounds good Alex. Apr 20, 2010
Alex Garhart
  5.11
Alex Garhart  
  5.11
I finally added a bolt to the lower section of the route, so the traverse is safe. One of the flakes exfoliated this spring making the boulder sequence a little easier. After the traverse a #11 offset DMM nut was really nice to have for the small slot above the splitter. May 2, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Alex what a line! You have done a killer job on this route an all yer other routes. It climbs much safer now. Thanks for your work. DF Mar 18, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Anyone know who put up the new route "try me".12 to the right ? It's hard compression climbing! Nov 4, 2013

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