Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 536 total · 6/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Mar 17, 2012 with updates from Jeff Moore
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Climb thin hands in a shallow right facing corner.
Traverse right briefly on crimps in a horizontal crack (with gear).
Climb a multi-crack system through varied sizes to a ledge.
Ascend a couple ledges to anchors potentially saving a 0.4" piece for the last moves.


A minute left of Hand Solo and just a bit left of the Duo. Around the corner and left of "Mine."

Start marked by shallow right facing thin hands crack to horizontal traverse right to gain another crack.

Less than 60m to ground.

Apparently a route called the Gnash(?) is located just left, and climbs a wide crack to the same anchors.


Singles: 0.4", 0.5", 0.75", 3"
Doubles: 1" to 2.5"


Super fun, and you should do it! Mar 18, 2012

really cool route with several diverse, interesting sections. Mar 18, 2012
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I did a super fun new and more direct start to this onsight. Start in the dihedral under the roof below the route. A few thin moves and you get a good stance where you can clip some solid gear (purple and blue tcus) before pulling the roof. I cleaned as much loose rock as I could on lead but there's probably a bit more. This variation clocks in around 11 or 11+. Overall very enjoyable route. Mar 24, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Is this the same route that is listed in Blooms new guide as an Unknown 5.11 (route 13)? Apr 20, 2016
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.11 PG13
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.11 PG13
Yes, this is the Unknown 5.11 in the Bloom IC guide. Very good hard climbing, thin off-sized crack much of the way. Done a lot of 10+s in the Creek; would have to go with the 5.11 rating on this one. Superb! Oct 29, 2016
Ben Bauer
Sunnyvale, CA
Ben Bauer   Sunnyvale, CA
Calling this 5.10+ is going to get someone hurt. I climbed this today and there is nothing 5.10 about it Oct 31, 2016
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
@bphelps15: Some people are gonna get hurt no matter what. Calling this 10+ or 11 won't stop somebody from getting hurt, but placing good solid gear, leading at or a little above your level, and using your head as a climber WILL stop you from getting hurt.

Oh yeah, and don't screw up changing the anchors or let your belayer drop you... because that could happen on a 5.7. Feb 5, 2017
I think this was another Jay Smith FA Sep 14, 2017
Shane Martin Smith
United States
Shane Martin Smith   United States
One of my favorite Creek routes. The top was a little lame but the other 90% was amazing. A must do for this area. May 5, 2018
new guide calls this tokyo drift I think Nov 13, 2018
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
New guidebook calls this Tokyo Drift and gives it a 5.11 rating. Really fun climb, mostly boulder problems to good rests. The last boulder move out of the .4/.3 size crack, just before the big ledge, definitely feels like at least 11a for my large fingers. Nov 25, 2018