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Routes in Selfish Wall

(Unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Little More Masochism T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apathy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breakfast Social T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bromance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dilated Cervix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Duo, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gnar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Roses T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heretic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I&I T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Id T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infidel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean and Green T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
MMM (Misanthropic Mustache Man) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Black Dog T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooze, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pack Rat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Selfishness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo East T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo West T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Suffering, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tag Team T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Takers, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turd Blossom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turdus Interuptus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jack Cody
Page Views: 974 total, 22/month
Shared By: Martin Harris on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

start up the 5.10- finger crack. About 10 feet up reach left and clip a bolt with a runner. Comit to dictate face moves trending up and left to second bolt. Gain a stance place 2 green c3's and fire up the arĂȘte slapping compression problem. Step left and fire up fingers to hands up to the anchor.

Location

A few routes left of solo east. Look for the dark varnished rock with two black bolts.

Protection

Quick draws a runner and tiny gear through hands. Probably a single set from fingers to hands and a few extra micro peices.
(Note the crux can not be aided as the crack goes away for for the boulder problem)

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Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12
Nice find Jack! I thought this was a brilliant route with thought provoking climbing and an Air Swedenesque crux. Mid 5.12 felt about right to me. Best route at the wall for sure! Oh and this route shares the same start with Tag Team. Apr 20, 2016
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
ya, more like .12/12+
Touché. Mar 30, 2016
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
If you go up to the top of the block on the next route to the right (with a little OW grunt), you can TR this thing. My buddy Lee thought solid 12 to 12+. whew. Nov 30, 2015
Jack C
Aspen, CO
Jack C   Aspen, CO
Such a great route and what a gift it was to get the fa. I walked by it for years every time expecting to see that a go getter has already established this thing. I don't know of any one else that has tried it yet. I would love to hear what other have to say. It was a hard route to rate. I would guess it's around 12b but who knows. It's pretty different than the average creek climb, a total new wave crackfu climb. The rock is bullet hard and the crux is well protected with double green c3's. The big air if you blow the crux is super clean. Trust me... Not to be missed if you like this kind of climbing. Oct 27, 2014