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Routes in Selfish Wall

(Unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Little More Masochism T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apathy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breakfast Social T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bromance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dilated Cervix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Duo, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gnar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Roses T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heretic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I&I T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Id T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infidel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean and Green T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
MMM (Misanthropic Mustache Man) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Black Dog T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooze, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pack Rat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Selfishness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo East T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo West T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Suffering, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tag Team T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Takers, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turd Blossom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turdus Interuptus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Michael Covington, Charlotte Fox, Angela Donini - Fall 2009
Page Views: 616 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 2, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A variable crack in the back of an open book. Wide to start, then goes to tips, then an incut hand crack.
From the top of the crack, head right up the ramp to find the anchor bolts. NOTE: this upper ramp has been sloughing off a fair amount of loose rock, so try to clear the shooting gallery of pedestrians before approaching or using the anchor.
Reportedly, the FA only used one cam, the rest was done on nuts and hexes.

Location

On the south side of the crag, about 40 feet around the corner left of Turdus Interruptus.
A new plaque marks the route's base (the original one disappeared).

Protection

Almost-sub-tips (0 or 00 C3?) to gold camalots. Anchor bolts off to the right (which are not visible from the base).

Photos

The crack itself was fun and varied, if a bit dirty. Still quite sandy coming out of the crack. Since the anchor is above and right of the climb, lowering off and top-roping can really wear your rope. I watched a cloud of sand go up into the air as I lowered from the friction of my rope going over the edge... My partner and I decided the best way to go about this for minimal rope wear would have been for me to top-belay her up, and for both of us to rap down. Apr 28, 2016
slim

  5.10-
slim    
  5.10-
the climbing is decent, but the anchor location is in a location that is rough on the rock and the rope. if the anchor were moved a ways to the left (or perhaps, about 20 feet lower where the good climbing ends), it might be helpful.

gear selection seems way, way off (maybe the OP was thinking of the route 'mine' which is about 100 feet to the right. recommended gear -optional big piece for start, then finger to hand size pieces. Mar 28, 2013
Rob Dillon  
 
This climb reminded me of why we usually seek out the varnish: because sandy rock, iffy gear and iffy jams aren't that much fun. Mar 18, 2012