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Routes in Carderock

Bad Rock T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnacle Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beautiful, Little, Lie Back T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beginner's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Biceps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Biceps - Var: Right Wall T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing Else T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Billy Goat Boulder V2 5+
Blue Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buckets of blood (overhang) V10 7C+
Bulge, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulging Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bump, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Carderock Low Traverse V5 6C
Cars and Trucks and Things That Go V1- 5-
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Chris Wex Don Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chris' Cruz T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chris's Goat TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copycat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Court Echelle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cripple's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cripple's Cube V2 5+
Cripple's Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crippling Paralysis TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crucifixion T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Crystal Ship TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Nerve T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Desperation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diamond, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Direct, The TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easy Layback TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eight Ball TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Eliminates T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elsie's TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Arete TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Nose TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elsie's Other TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evan's Bolt Ladder T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Face To Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat Man's Fantasy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifi T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingernail TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flutterby TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friction Layback TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Staircase TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Bucket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T V1-2 5
Herbie's Horror TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Herbie's Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impossible T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incipient TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Iron Cross TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jackknife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Jam Box TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jam Box Chimney TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Jan's Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jan's Face - Var: Eight Ball T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jan's Face - Var: Left Edge T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kindergarten TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Krypton V5+ 6C+
Lazy Daisy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Leonards Lunacy T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Make A Wish T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Margie's Chimney T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Marion's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meenehan's Edge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meenehan's Staircase T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Merv's Nerve TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Near Matt Splat T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Norris' Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Norris's Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose That Blows, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outlook Rock Boulder V1-2 5
Overhanging Block T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Parking Lot Traverse, The V2 5+
Photogenic T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T V-easy 3
Rack Direct, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage V0 4
Ronnie's Leap TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serenity Syndrome TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shipley's TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shonard's Lunacy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V6 7A
Silver Spot TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Silver Sucker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot It Out V3 6A
Sloth, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spider Walk TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stannards Playground / TB Boulder TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sterling's Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swayback Layback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweethog TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swollen Head T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tea and Scrumpet V4 6B
Tomb of the Unknown Shoulder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Triple A TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trudie's Terror T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey V2 5+
Twitch T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Upper Wall Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Upper Wall Jam Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Vulgarian Wedge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk On By T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wet Dream T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wish Come True T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
X, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yellow Jacket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig Zag TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: Herb Conn (1942)
Page Views: 3,008 total · 30/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Mar 6, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description [Edit]

Start to the right of the Jam Crack slab but before you get into the chimney on the right. Just to the right of the detached flake. The holds are small and crimpy and good footwork is in order. It gets a little thinner at the very top.

Location [Edit]

Between Jam Crack and Chockstone Chimney. Basically just left of the chimney area after Jan's Face in the Jungle Cliff area.

Protection [Edit]

Top rope. Lots of webbing required as usual

Photos

Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
 
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
 
The Open Book, the Royal Robbins route in Tahquitz, gets credit for being the first 5.9 route. But doesn't this predate that by at least 10 years? Jan 28, 2012
Sean TM  
Yep! It definitely predates Open Book by 5 years. Until I see other evidence, this is the first 5.9 in the country! May 22, 2013
Brian Malone
Olney, Maryland
  5.9
Brian Malone   Olney, Maryland
  5.9
In the 1940's it was considered one of the hardsest climbs in the US - hence the 5.9 distinction (in what was then the newly developed YDS). Jun 21, 2015

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