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Routes in Carderock

Bad Rock T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnacle Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beautiful, Little, Lie Back T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beginner's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Biceps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Biceps - Var: Right Wall T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing Else T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Billy Goat Boulder V2 5+
Blue Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buckets of blood (overhang) V10 7C+
Bulge, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulging Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bump, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Carderock Low Traverse V5 6C
Cars and Trucks and Things That Go V1- 5-
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Chris Wex Don Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chris' Cruz T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chris's Goat TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copycat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Court Echelle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cripple's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cripple's Cube V2 5+
Cripple's Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crippling Paralysis TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crucifixion T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Crystal Ship TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Nerve T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Desperation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diamond, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Direct, The TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easy Layback TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eight Ball TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Eliminates T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elsie's TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Arete TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Nose TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elsie's Other TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evan's Bolt Ladder T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Face To Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat Man's Fantasy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifi T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingernail TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flutterby TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friction Layback TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Staircase TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Bucket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T V1-2 5
Herbie's Horror TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Herbie's Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impossible T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incipient TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Iron Cross TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jackknife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Jam Box TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jam Box Chimney TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Jan's Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jan's Face - Var: Eight Ball T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jan's Face - Var: Left Edge T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kindergarten TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Krypton V5+ 6C+
Lazy Daisy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Leonards Lunacy T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Make A Wish T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Margie's Chimney T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Marion's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meenehan's Edge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meenehan's Staircase T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Merv's Nerve TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Near Matt Splat T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Norris' Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Norris's Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose That Blows, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outlook Rock Boulder V1-2 5
Overhanging Block T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Parking Lot Traverse, The V2 5+
Photogenic T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T V-easy 3
Rack Direct, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage V0 4
Ronnie's Leap TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serenity Syndrome TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shipley's TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shonard's Lunacy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V6 7A
Silver Spot TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Silver Sucker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot It Out V3 6A
Sloth, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spider Walk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stannards Playground / TB Boulder TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sterling's Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swayback Layback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweethog TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swollen Head T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tea and Scrumpet V4 6B
Tomb of the Unknown Shoulder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Triple A TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trudie's Terror T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey V2 5+
Twitch T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Upper Wall Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Upper Wall Jam Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Vulgarian Wedge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk On By T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wet Dream T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wish Come True T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
X, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yellow Jacket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig Zag TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Paul Hess 2004(?)
Page Views: 4,825 total, 44/month
Shared By: Dan Hickstein on Jan 9, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

Taken outside, near the grassy banks of a small river, on a glorious spring day, with plenty of butter and raspberry jam, few things in life are nicer than tea and crumpets. Congruently, there are few boulder problems on the Carderock schist that can compare to the delight that is known as Tea and Scrumpet. Yet, what – you may ask – is a scrumpet? The Oxford English Dictionary defines it as "an elegantly awkward rock climbing move executed with one's genetalia an uncomfortably short distance from the rock."

Location

This route traverses (left to right) from the front side of X-face, past Buckets of Blood Arete and onto the back wall with one important rule: you are not allowed to use any holds on or above the one inch roof on the Impossible Face (the face just left of Buckets of Blood Arete, shown in the center of the beta photo). The crux is the "scrump" move: getting both hands established on the arete. Kicking a foot across to the back wall is a harsh test of groin flexibility and may require substantial pre-game stretching.

Protection

A bouldering mat placed near the arete saves the butt from damage, but is considered by many to be "unsporting."

Photos

Some of the comments and the following description of this problem on Summitpost indicate that people are traversing a little too high, so let me provide the following clarification: The easiest way to do the traverse around the impossible face is with your feet about 3 feet off the ground – this is about V2 (and a little bit scary) and I believe that it is called the "Impossible Traverse". "Tea and Scrumpet" is the low variant, where you are not allowed to use any holds above the small 1-inch roof that is about 6 feet off the ground. Consequently, the footholds for Tea and Scrumpet are only about 1 foot off the ground. You really only use two crimps on the impossible face (that are fairly low to the ground), before "scrumping" over to the sloping jug on the arete. I think that this route is somewhere around V4. If it feels like V2, you are either super strong, or you are climbing too high.

Here are some nice photos and description on Summitpost showing the Impossible Traverse (high traverse), but accidentally calling it Tea and Scrumpet: summitpost.org/tea-scrumpet…

This photo shows the correct position: mountainproject.com/v/10633… Dec 28, 2014
Kennedy, are you saying that you ended up pretty much in the position in the photo? The next move it the coolest! You need to kick your right leg all the way across the gap and onto the back wall. It's super dynamic and I need to be wearing really stretchy pants to pull it off. After you climb T&S, you can just keep traversing along the wall, past beginners crack, trying to stay as low as possible. After you pass the tree 30' right of beginners crack, there is another ~V4 upward traverse problem that I call "Shinbone", because there is a good chance that you'll whack your shinbone if you fall off. Linking T&S and Shinbone is a super-sweet traverse - my favorite problem at C-Rock. Oct 20, 2014
Kennedy O'Donnell
McLean, VA
  V3
Kennedy O'Donnell   McLean, VA
  V3
I just went and checked this problem out. Is there an intended end spot or "top out?" I ended on a jug on the arete and crimp on the inside wall and saw nowhere further to go. Jun 30, 2014
Thanks Dan. Real glad you still enjoy that problem. For the doubters, I did research with the old(-er) guard, including Geoff (RIP...) and John, and this line was new. It was also damned hard to figure out to make it a reality. Started out as "Implausible", but renamed to account for the need for scrumping, which seemed to be key beta, and fun too for those of us into such things. Jan 16, 2014
many, many ascents prior to 1976 and many more since...

similar in quality to the east facing traverse west of T.B. Boulder/Stannard's Playground. 200 m WSW May 13, 2013
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
I recall Geoff Farrar busting my chops on this problem in at least 83 or 84, we did a variation that uses a sit start at the bottom of BOB and finished by baling near the top of X- face or finishing Impossible. As Rickd said, there were plenty of people climbing harder than me and doing this problem. Given the number of years people have been climbing at Carderock and the amount of eliminations I saw during 2 decades I would be surprised if there is anything that hasn't been done before. You could always check with John Gregory, he's a walking encyclopedia of climbing routes and knowledge particularly in the Mid-Atlantic region. Mar 19, 2010
Rick, I'm not sure if it was done in the 80's: the route requires that the climber squash their genitals against the sharp arete, a technique that was not invented until 1998. Jun 9, 2009
dwight grupp
Almont, Colorado
dwight grupp   Almont, Colorado
Hello, I grew up going to Rock State Park. It sure is nice to see pictures of the area here on Mtn. Project..On the south side there is a great 5'7/5'8 50' climb. I had to solo it, it was great, no one was there, good time to reflect. I've been living in Colorado near a little canyon called Taylor Canyon, Harmels Rock Climbing. Check it out. And the Black Canyon is an hr away, intimidating to say the leaste, anyways being a forest hill native, it all started there for me. Cheers. Mar 2, 2009