Type: TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: 1960's
Page Views: 3,994 total · 82/month
Shared By: Gee Dubble on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Jungle Cliffs, Central

Elsie's Nose is the classic line that follows an incipient crack just right of the Evans Bolt Ladder. Start off a pointy stone, with difficulty, layback seam with poor feet, and white, quartz knob, to a moist, shallow, pocket, with the addition of a layback edge crux the right foot onto the quartz knob. Then maintain interest at a lower standard to the top. Sit start is dope; 5.12a ***

Don't forget to paste your left foot under the mini roof!

Also known as Schmoe's Nose, etc et al.

Location

Left of the X on Barnacle face and right of Stearlings Crack is a steep, for Carderock, prow.

Protection

Top rope. Deciduous trees provide the anchor. Maybe padding for the anchor rope. Nice angle for micro-traxioning, but low crux. Free soloed on routine by the late Peter Absolon. Even free soloed by Brr Matt Lavender. (On my circuits I found it sketchy-er than the Sloth, but not as hard as the Dream (direct in MP))

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