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Routes in Carderock

Bad Rock T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnacle Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beautiful, Little, Lie Back T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beginner's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Biceps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Biceps - Var: Right Wall T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing Else T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Billy Goat Boulder V2 5+
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buckets of blood (overhang) V10 7C+
Bulge, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulging Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bump, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Carderock Low Traverse V5 6C
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Chris Wex Don Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chris' Cruz T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chris's Goat TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copycat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cripple's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cripple's Cube V2 5+
Cripple's Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crippling Paralysis TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crucifixion T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Crystal Ship TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Nerve T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Desperation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diamond, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Direct, The TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easy Layback TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eight Ball TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Eliminates T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elsie's TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Arete TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Nose TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elsie's Other TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evan's Bolt Ladder T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Face To Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat Man's Fantasy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifi T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingernail TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flutterby TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friction Layback TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Staircase TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Bucket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T V1-2 5
Herbie's Horror TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Herbie's Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impossible T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incipient TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Iron Cross TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jackknife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Jam Box TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jam Box Chimney TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Jan's Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jan's Face - Var: Eight Ball T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jan's Face - Var: Left Edge T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kindergarten TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lazy Daisy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Leonards Lunacy T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Make A Wish T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Margie's Chimney T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Marion's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meenehan's Edge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meenehan's Staircase T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Merv's Nerve TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Near Matt Splat T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Norris' Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Norris's Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose That Blows, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outlook Rock Boulder V1-2 5
Overhanging Block T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Photogenic T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T V-easy 3
Rack Direct, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ronnie's Leap TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serenity Syndrome TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shipley's TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shonard's Lunacy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V6 7A
Silver Spot TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Silver Sucker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sloth, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spider Walk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stannards Playground / TB Boulder TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sterling's Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swayback Layback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweethog TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swollen Head T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tea and Scrumpet V4 6B
Tomb of the Unknown Shoulder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Triple A TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trudie's Terror T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twitch T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Upper Wall Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Upper Wall Jam Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Vulgarian Wedge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk On By T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wet Dream T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wish Come True T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
X, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yellow Jacket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig Zag TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Sterling Hendricks
Page Views: 2,251 total, 25/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 18, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

Well, it's not really a 5.7, but that's part of the charm of Carderock, isn't it? Work the semi-polished corner with a mixture of stemming, face-holding, and jamming. The rock is bullet hard and clean, like most of Carderock. Pretty cool route that is unexpectedly technical and demanding for the grade.

Location

Right of The Dream roof on the Jungle Cliff (left side of Carderock). Look for a prominent, right facing corner with an easy start and a gentle overhang for most of the second half.

Protection

TR, though I think it would take gear reasonably well for the solid leader.

Photos

ubu
 
ubu  
 
Sterling's Crack is to the climber's left of The Dream, not right as in the description. I am told the horn near the top is off, which does increase the difficulty a bit. Aug 9, 2016
Chris Oleson
Santiago, Chile
 
Chris Oleson   Santiago, Chile
 
Try the face just to the left side of the crack too Jan 3, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
I'm intrigued by the claims that leading at Carderock is unsafe due to rock quality. Ever climbed in the desert? How about the Fisher Towers?? Oct 26, 2015
Phil Keffer  
 
Trad climbing is not recommended at Carderock or Great Falls due to the rock layers crumbling under heavy pressure. I believe there has been serious injury or death in the past due to this problem. It is good for practicing lead while on top rope. Apr 6, 2015
ferrells  
 
Thanks May 31, 2013
First Ascent by Sterling Hendricks. Dec 15, 2012
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
 
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
 
This is the best route at Carderock and a good lead. Sep 7, 2011