Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Sterling Hendricks
Page Views: 2,899 total · 27/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 18, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Well, it's not really a 5.7, but that's part of the charm of Carderock, isn't it? Work the semi-polished corner with a mixture of stemming, face-holding, and jamming. The rock is bullet hard and clean, like most of Carderock. Pretty cool route that is unexpectedly technical and demanding for the grade.

Location

Right of The Dream roof on the Jungle Cliff (left side of Carderock). Look for a prominent, right facing corner with an easy start and a gentle overhang for most of the second half.

Protection

TR, though I think it would take gear reasonably well for the solid leader.

Photos

Timmamok n/a
none
 
Timmamok n/a   none
 
This is the best route at Carderock and a good lead. Sep 7, 2011
First Ascent by Sterling Hendricks. Dec 15, 2012
ferrells
  5.7
ferrells  
  5.7
Thanks May 31, 2013
Phil Keffer  
 
Trad climbing is not recommended at Carderock or Great Falls due to the rock layers crumbling under heavy pressure. I believe there has been serious injury or death in the past due to this problem. It is good for practicing lead while on top rope. Apr 6, 2015
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
I'm intrigued by the claims that leading at Carderock is unsafe due to rock quality. Ever climbed in the desert? How about the Fisher Towers?? Oct 26, 2015
Chris Oleson
Santiago, Chile
 
Chris Oleson   Santiago, Chile
 
Try the face just to the left side of the crack too Jan 3, 2016
ubu
 
ubu  
 
Sterling's Crack is to the climber's left of The Dream, not right as in the description. I am told the horn near the top is off, which does increase the difficulty a bit. Aug 9, 2016