Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This mundane-looking black wall of edges & pockets is considered by many to be a top classic of Margalef. There are many things to recommend: the rock is excellent, offering many interesting pockets, and a long, continuous line. However, the climbing is fairly unremarkable, and much of the difficult climbing is slabby, on sloping edges & shallow pockets. Enjoyable enough, but if you've got limited time at Margalef, there are certainly more unique lines available to produce a lasting memory.

Mantle up onto the horizontal rail. Thin slabby moves lead up the gray wall to reach the obvious black undercling flake. Work right along the flake & a few good rest options. More thin moves on steeper terrain lead to some great sinker pockets & another rest in a scoop. Good pockets lead up & around the brown patch, culminating in a pumpy traverse back right to the anchor.

Location

At the far left end of the Finestra cliff is a vertical wall with ~8 routes. Ktploptr is on this wall, and is the second route right of Montgronyeta, which begins up the right side of the big detached flake.

Protection

~8 bolts to hidden 2BA.

Photos

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