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Routes in Raco de la Finestra

Action Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Aeroplastica S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Coraje al Forao S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Entretres S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ingravitus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ktploptr S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Laverint d'ombres S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lo Xispero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Loba S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magrana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Montgronyeta S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Okemaka S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pitus i Flautes S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,473 total, 15/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This slightly overhanging, jug-covered wall, is one of the best 5.12a's at Margalef. The unassuming wall of dark cobbles hides a discontinuous, snaking like of killer huecos, split by a few thin boulder problems.

The intimidating start is not too bad once you locate the key hold. Work up to the double horizontal break, and the route's hardest move. A super-thin 2-finger pocket leads to a small incut knob, and then the first of a long chain of huecos. Hero pulls wind up to another thin section around the fifth bolt, then more jugs. A final thin section on sloping crimps guards the chains.

Location

Around 100' and seven routes left of Magrana is an exposed, sloping ledge. This is the left-most route that begins from the ledge.

Protection

~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

Caliza
  5.12a
Caliza  
  5.12a
Amazing line... 5.12b, maybe? Oct 13, 2016
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Didn't find the move off the break down low to be the crux. Cruxier section was up above bolt 5 if memory serves me right, a big move. Great route and well worth a burn if in this sector. Oct 17, 2014