Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,993 total · 16/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This slightly overhanging, jug-covered wall, is one of the best 5.12a's at Margalef. The unassuming wall of dark cobbles hides a discontinuous, snaking like of killer huecos, split by a few thin boulder problems.

The intimidating start is not too bad once you locate the key hold. Work up to the double horizontal break, and the route's hardest move. A super-thin 2-finger pocket leads to a small incut knob, and then the first of a long chain of huecos. Hero pulls wind up to another thin section around the fifth bolt, then more jugs. A final thin section on sloping crimps guards the chains.

Location

Around 100' and seven routes left of Magrana is an exposed, sloping ledge. This is the left-most route that begins from the ledge.

Protection

~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos