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Routes in El Malpais

1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown V2 V2+ 5+
Unknown V3 V3 6A
Unknown V5 V5 6C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Horak, Baltz, Dalen, Oct 1978
Page Views: 405 total, 4/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route was named after the famous climb in Yosemite. (1) Up an easy chimney. (2) Work up toward a seam in a left-facing corner. Work through the crux corner (fixed Leeper Z) to gain a squeeze chimney and the ledge with a large tree. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. (3) Climb the flared chimney above past two bolts (5.8), through the overhang and belay on the ledge above. (4) The final easy pitch works its way through the caprock.

Location

About 8.1 miles past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff are the largest walls in the Malpais. 1096 is the prominent flared chimney on the west face. The route starts below the left end of a large ledge with a tree at the chimney's base.

Protection

Standard rack to 5". Take kneepads!

Photos

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