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Routes in El Malpais
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1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Make Off-Width Great Again T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown V2 V2+ 5+ |
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Unknown V3 V3 6A |
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Unknown V5 V5 6C |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 34.8721, -107.88679 |
| FA: | Horak, Baltz, Dalen, Oct 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,118 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument
Details
Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, ( nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Description
This route was named after the famous climb in Yosemite. (1) Up an easy chimney. (2) Work up toward a seam in a left-facing corner. Work through the crux corner (fixed Leeper Z) to gain a squeeze chimney and the ledge with a large tree. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. (3) Climb the flared chimney above past two bolts (5.8), through the overhang and belay on the ledge above. (4) The final easy pitch works its way through the caprock.
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