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Routes in El Malpais
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1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown V2 V2+ 5+ |
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Unknown V3 V3 6A |
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Unknown V5 V5 6C |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | Dalen & Horak, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 543 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument
Details
Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, (nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Description
Note: This route is unrepeated since the first ascent due to the horror stories about the lack of protection. Modern large cams and Big Bros may reduce the risk considerably.
(1) Layback the left crack (hardest near the ground) to the point where you can step over to the right crack (at about 90 ft)and finish up less strenuous terrain to the ledge.
(1) Layback the left crack (hardest near the ground) to the point where you can step over to the right crack (at about 90 ft)and finish up less strenuous terrain to the ledge.
Albuquerque, NM