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Routes in El Malpais

1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown V2 V2+ 5+
Unknown V3 V3 6A
Unknown V5 V5 6C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dalen & Horak, 1977
Page Views: 496 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Note: This route is unrepeated since the first ascent due to the horror stories about the lack of protection. Modern large cams and Big Bros may reduce the risk considerably.

(1) Layback the left crack (hardest near the ground) to the point where you can step over to the right crack (at about 90 ft)and finish up less strenuous terrain to the ledge.

Location

About 300 yards past the Surfin' the Turf area is a large block leaning against the main wall. A prominent left-leaning pair of cracks split the face.

Protection

1/2" to as big as you've got.

Photos

Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Sure, large cams & Big Bros would help. But the biggest obstacle on the upper crack is a lack of resting places. Dec 27, 2011