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Routes in El Malpais

1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown V2 V2+ 5+
Unknown V3 V3 6A
Unknown V5 V5 6C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Baltz & Dahrling, 1976
Page Views: 404 total, 4/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

(1) Climb the crack to a dead tree. From here, the crack widens and steepens, ending in an alcove. (2) Move up out of the alcove and continue up the crack to the base of a thick flake. Traverse right and climb a thin finger crack (5.8) to a belay on top of a block.

Location

At the back of the Natural Arch Canyon is a prominent low-angle right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Two or three super-large cams and a sling. On the first ascent, a tied-off helmet was the only pro on the first pitch. Big Bros would be nice.

Photos

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