Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Embick & Baltz, Spring 1977, FFA Baltz & Horak, July 1977
Page Views: 2,467 total · 14/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

(1) Begin on the face to the right of the crack and traverse into the dihedral at the 6-ft level (5.12-). Once established in the dihedral, have the rack & rope thrown up to you. Sustained climbing leads up a hand crack to an alcove below a roof (5.10b). Belay off a 5" cam or tube chock. (2) Stem and jam out the roof and make hard moves to gain the dihedral above (5.10c) then continue up the moderate but large crack to the back of a cave and an uncomfortable belay below a huge roof. (3) Traverse left under the roof on a narrow ledge to the lip, then climb an unprotected dihedral (5.10c) to a point where a move right leads to jugs and the summit.

Pitches two and three can be combined if you're feeling fresh and don't mind a bit (a lot?) of rope drag on the crux.

Descent: walk off.

Location Suggest change

You can't miss this one. Only fifty feet from the road, the prominent dihedral faces north and is capped by a huge roof. This climb is 3.9 miles south of the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. Park down the road a bit to avoid gawkers.

Protection Suggest change

P1: Well protected with 0.5 to 5" cams or hexes and tubes.
P2: 2 sets of 2" to 4" cams, singles of 5 and 6.
P3: Small cams again with mid-range stoppers for upper headwall.