El Malpais Rock Climbing
|GPS:||34.872, -107.887 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||18,818 total · 137/month|
|Shared By:||David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
One note about local ethics:
The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged.
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