All Locations > New Mexico > New Mexico, I-40 Corr…

El Malpais Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in El Malpais

L › R R › L A › Z

	1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Make Off-Width Great Again T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown V2 V2+ 5+
	Unknown V3 V3 6A
	Unknown V5 V5 6C
Unsorted Routes:

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Elevation:	6,960 ft
GPS:	34.872, -107.887 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,818 total · 137/month
Shared By:	David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Effective November 16th, 2020, please do not travel into New Mexico to climb.

On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.

The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.

This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.

Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.

Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument Details

Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, (nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."

Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."

Description

The El Malpais climbing area extends for twelve miles along Hwy 117 on the easern edge of the lower Grants lava flow from which the name was taken. The climbing is on soft sandstone and is comparable in quality to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. The area was first explored, starting in the Fall of 1975, by David Dahrling and David Baltz who had established thirteen moderate trad routes by December of 1976. Further action in the late '70s by Paul Horak, Mark Dalen, Charlie Ware led to additional routes, as well as visits by such out-of-state luminaries as Andrew Embick, and Earl Wiggins. Because of the intimidating nature of many of the lines, the area has seen very limited development since, in spite of the enormous potential. The vast majority of the established routes are crack climbs, entirely unlike the uniform cracks of the Indian Creek variety, but of a more varied and technical nature. Due to the soft rock, bolts and other fixed protection are rarely encountered, but nuts and cams work well. There is also excellent bouldering, the approaches are short--at most fifteen minutes from the car--and the climbing season runs from February through November.

One note about local ethics:
The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged.

Getting There

Drive west on Interstate-40 from Albuquerque to the Hwy 117 exit four miles short of Grants. Drive south on Hwy 117 for 4 miles until past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. The first few miles are part of the Acoma Reservation and marked 'No Trespassing' even though much of the area is public land (National Monument and designated wilderness). As one approached the largest natural arch in the state, a sign will mark the beginning of unrestricted climbing.