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Routes in El Malpais

1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown V2 V2+ 5+
Unknown V3 V3 6A
Unknown V5 V5 6C
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Baltz, Ware, Dalen, 1977
Page Views: 880 total · 8/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Nov 13, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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There are two ways to start. The east side start climbs an overhanging hand crack (5.9) on the north end of the spire. The West side start climbs a steep slab (5.8). Both starts end on top of a large flake on the west side. From here climb the face, clipping a drilled angle, then move around to the north side and finish up on the east side of the summit.

Rappel off two drilled angles.


Trudy Buns is a 50 ft spire located in the Icebreaker area on the west side of the highway. To avoid Acoma land, approach from the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook and descend off the west side of the mesa, then walk around to the south then east past the Icebreaker buttress.


Mostly fixed. The east side crack will require a cam or two.



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