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Routes in El Malpais
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1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Make Off-Width Great Again T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown V2 V2+ 5+ |
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Unknown V3 V3 6A |
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Unknown V5 V5 6C |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Baltz & Horak |
| Page Views: | 801 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument
Details
Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, ( nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Description
An El Malpais testpiece. (1) Begin with thin hands in a clean corner and move over a bulge (5.10+) continuing up the widening crack and passing a fixed pin to a final off-width and large ledge with bolt anchors. (2) Move up a thin fingers corner off the ledge to easier ground above. Finish on the Dakota arete up and to the left.
Descent: See Surfin' the Turf for the location of the rap route. Can be done with a single 60m with some easy down-climbing at the bottom.
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