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Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Gas? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadam. Me? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks for the Memories S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,488 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tim Camuti on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A variant of the second pitch of Gutenberger Wall. After climbing the easy fifth class pitch 1 of Gutenberger Wall, trend right for pitch two and the rock will feature square cut edges on the flakes, rather that the smoother dishes found on the Wall route. Protects with 2 or 3 bolts about 30 feet apart on easy terrain. Rappel down the route with one 60m rope (chains are every 25 m or so)

Location

The rightmost route on Gutenberger Wall, Edge is a one pitch variant of Gutenberger Wall that follows more square cut edging features.

Protection

Quickdraws. Each pitch has chain anchors.

Photos

Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
  5.7 PG13
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
  5.7 PG13
Mark, it's pure sport. The bolts are, um, sparse. Not quite runout. If by chance you found trad pro on this section of the wall, it would be chossy as hell. There are a few small features higher up, but I wouldn't even trust body weight on some. Stick to the friction and occasional knob. Feb 25, 2013
G Edge really only needs draws for pro? Is it a true sport climb or are cams & nuts necessary? Dec 11, 2011