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Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Gas? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadam. Me? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks for the Memories S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Branscomb, Steve Iverson, Ron Vardanega, February 1978
Page Views: 1,345 total, 13/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Feb 12, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A runout adventure on a pretty section of stone. Rumor has it that the old 1/4" bolts are to be replaced and some bolts added to make this a nicer route. There were only three bolts on the original 50m crux, so, yes, please do. From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) proceed up and left across the central crack system to the second belay of Lichen Us. Keep proceeding up and left (5.5 or 5.6, no pro) to the belay at the base of a big bulge. This belay is located a little up and left of a small roof/flake system. Above is the stuff, runout 5.9 friction and some knobs. Two pitches lead to the top.

Location

The second route left of the obvious central crack system (called Gutenberger Wall Direct). Goes up the center of the big triangular area of moss-less rock left of Lichen Us. Approach by crossing the river on slippery boulders below the central crack system. May be impossible in the Spring: use your head and don't die. Climb to the "Grand Central Belay Station" by any of the Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a nice crack that goes out right, then back left to the belay above the dihedral. Climb two pitches up and left to the base of the stuff.

Protection

Bolts, light rack of thin to medium nuts/cams to get to "Grand Central Belay".

Photos

Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Does anyone know if the bolts have been replaced (or if bolts were added)?

Thanks! May 18, 2016