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Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Gas? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadam. Me? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks for the Memories S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown 1990s
Page Views: 2,527 total, 24/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Feb 12, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A good route with 3/8" bolts reasonably spaced. Follows the nice face left of the obvious central crack system, called Gutenberger Wall Direct (GWD). From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) can either climb down to a gear belay down and left of GWD and head straight up from there (bolts), or diagonal left across GWD to a bolted belay at the base of the third pitch (the stuff). Can rappell the route.

Location

The nice face left of GWD. Cross the river on slippery boulders below the GWD. In the Spring this may be impossible: use your head and don't die. Climb by the various Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a the long traverse out a nice crack out right till you can cut back to the "Grand Central Belay Station". Proceed onto the route from there.
The Gutenberger Wall Direct is a nice, though sometimes dirty, climb following the central crack system using pro from small to medium cams and nuts, about 5.7.

Protection

Bolts, light rack, thin to mediums nuts & cams.

Photos

bob branscomb
Lander, WY
 
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
 
Did this with Vard in Nov 2017...older bolts...one or two old 1/4" and some 5/16" buttonheads and one very strange glued-in cable. They seemed in good shape and the anchors are good 3/8" rawls.
Suggest taking a few cams to 1". We hadn't done this route before...it's one the better ones on the dome and adequately protected. Nov 10, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Agreed with Ryan ^^^, the bolts are... interesting in sections, but I think most everything is safe enough. Bring the rack to supplement bolts, maybe just a single set to 1" on Lichen Us itself.

A 70m rope will see you to the base of Gutenberger from the topmost anchors (you rap a different route). It was a circuitous rap in our instance, but it is possible and belay stations are readily picked out on the way down. Attempting this in the dark without knowing where the rap stations are, however, may not be safe. Jan 19, 2015
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
OK bolts. At least one rusted quarter incher and some sort of drilled head? Most of the other bolts looked alright, but definitely not new bolts here. Apr 23, 2010