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Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Gas? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadam. Me? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks for the Memories S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 731 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kyle Christie on Oct 13, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the Iraqi Wall and is the first bolted line to the left of the Iraqi Dihedral.

Slippery, water-polished feet off the deck, then some featured climbing, then a thin middle-section, and again finishing on featured rock.

I thought the middle section had some thin/friction moves at 5.9+/5.10-; my partner thought it was easier.

There is a variation which traverses left after bolt #3 for 2 bolts and then continues straight up, we didn't do this variation but it looked to be similar.

Location

Iraqi Wall. Start 15-20 feet left of where you would start Easy Way Up/Guttenberg Wall pitch 1.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
Pretty good climb, really enjoyed it. Felt more like a mid 5.10 for me. Jan 1, 2017

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