Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
Page Views: 3,112 total · 28/month
Shared By: Michael Buchanan on Nov 8, 2009 with updates from jawshoe uhh
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Full on fatty!


Left of Firestarter


Big fat cams (#5 and #6 Camalot) Bolted anchors. Hexes work well.
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
tried this back in my formative trad years on tr, and barely made it 15 feet! Sep 9, 2010
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
just went back this past saturday 1/29/11 and gave this thing another go. It's pretty much hand/fist stacks for a long while with a knee in the crack. tr'd it because stepping to 10d ow in january (or any month for that matter) seems crazy to me. Jan 31, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Much harder than Firestarter for sure. The first 10 feet aren't bad as there is a bomber edge in the back to milk, but once the hand/fist stacks start its a fight. 2 each #5/#6 camalots a good idea. The crack turns into a liebackable flake near the top of the vertical section which I took full advantage of as my knee was bleedy profusely. Wide cracks are fun in a weird painful way. Oct 23, 2011
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts. Jan 29, 2012
celerystick   Riverton
You'll either love it or hate it...I loved it! Had to TR, I didn't have gear big enough. Jul 15, 2012
F.A. Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976 Dec 6, 2012
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
The Ruckman guide calls it 10.d--come ready to fight! May 27, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Such a quality line, and while it is more sustained, the moves are a bit more obvious than the cruxes on Fire starter or Certain death IMO.... Not that this is too surprising.. I think the position of the crack gets one pretty fired up too, pun intended. May 8, 2017
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
Although I had the benefit of a top rope to simplify things, it seemed to me like the main crux was not getting your knee stuck! Take care getting it out after sitting on it. This climb has no-hands rests galore. A bit of trickiness to change directions and jam around the 'don't do the lieback' flake, after which it eases up again.

I'm surprised this was rated 5.10d at one point. This was far and away much easier than Generator Crack in Yosemite, which was my benchmark for 5.10c OW and also required some Leavittation. I'd call this one 5.10a or 5.10b. Jun 9, 2017
Brian Johnson
Salt Lake City, UT
Brian Johnson   Salt Lake City, UT
There are nice new looking bolts at the top of both Burner and Firestarter. Oct 30, 2017