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Routes in Burner Buttress

Back Burner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dread Locks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fire Starter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Goldfinch Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Trumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 237 total, 2/month
Shared By: Arie on Jan 22, 2009 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Definitely not a Bong Eater, but still a fun, short line to hit up if someone is bogarting the better lines or to beat the winter inversion. Found just uphill and west of Bong Eater and just down and west of the Burner Brothers this scrappy chunk of rock offers at least one decent line (and reportedly another). Start in a nice nook in the scrub oak, climb through a couple of blocks to a nice stance about fifteen feet up. Lieback left up a quality crack to an offwidth with interesting holds. From here three options arise. Either continue straight up a wide crack in the corner (more liebacking), or step out right on easier terrain with cracks and face holds. Or finally crank out left on reachy, fun hand jams, on perpetually deteriorating rock. Despite the serial crouton nature of the rock, the jams are solid and the move out to the arĂȘte is quality. Follow the arĂȘte/slab to the top. Belay at double bolts at the head of the original corner. Walk off east or west. Or rap off webbing with quicklinks.

Location

Found on perhaps the furthest west chunk of granite in LCC. Five minutes uphill and west of Bong Eater, and a short jump downhill from the main Burner Buttress. When the Bong Eater trail cuts right to the route, continue uphill on social trails. The easiest entrance is by continuing up towards Burner and then cutting back west at the elevation of the base of the Finch line through a gap in the scrub. A few large boulders directly below the line provide ample room for sun bathing and hide the lower reaches of the climb.

Protection

Standard rack. One larger piece is nice but not critical.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
+1 for Gregs comment, left for a flavor of grit or right for more standard, straightforward LCC climbing. Both worth climbing if you are up here and climbed the main OW's, or there happens to be parties on them. Adds a more standard hand, finger crack to your wide outing. May 8, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Go left for a harder variation albeit with some grit. Going right at the fork reduces the difficulty, but also probably keeps the rock quality higher. Mar 24, 2015
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
Bottom is fun and scrappy. Top is alright. Short. Not as hards as Satan's, Callitwhatyouplease, Bushwhack, or the top of Pentapitch (the 5.8 standards...). Probably as hard as Squeeze my Lemon and Crescent Crack. Probably not worth doing in its own right... Nov 8, 2009