Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Blake DeVries - 3.16.17
Page Views: 376 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blake DeVries on Mar 28, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start at the finger crack to left of Death Flake (see the new granite guide). Follow finger crack dihedral and climb onto the ledge using the right-hand flake. Continue to the bush on top of the ledge. Follow the ledge up to a fist jam crack. Once at the top, veer right to the top of the tree gully under the roof. Set up a gear belay station here.

Pitch 2: From this point, climb straight up and place a #3 camelot. Traverse across the face to the right and link in with the top portion of Death Flake and up to the belay tree.

Location

The route sits to the left of Death Flake and the start is a small dihedral finger crack.

Protection

Standard rack and nuts.

Bring gear for belay station at the end of pitch one. Rappel out of tree on pitch two.

Photos

Levi Call
Moab Utah
 
Levi Call   Moab Utah
 
It is not necessary to break this into 2 pitches. We climbed it in one pitch and the rope drag was insignificant. Backed up the anchor with a Camelots size 1, .75, and .5. The tree was small but sturdy and sufficient for rapping off. Feb 3, 2018
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Head up left instead of to the tree above death flake. The rock is very cool up there. Not your typical LCC granite. Make anchor off boulders with webbing. Apr 29, 2018